Showing posts with label les deux magots. Show all posts
Showing posts with label les deux magots. Show all posts

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Cafe culture

Tomorrow's the big day. My first day of classes at Le Cordon Bleu Paris. It's actually orientation day, so I'll get my uniform, equipment, schedule, etc. I was full of nervous energy today and cleaned the whole apartment. I'm not talking about a general Sunday cleaning, I'm talking about wiping light switches and under every conceivable surface, book, vase, shoe, and everything in between. You all know what I mean - I'm sure everyone has experienced this kind of instant-gratification-seeking cleaning frenzy before a big day.


On my mind is something more than just my first day of culinary school, however. I've also been thinking about where this blog is headed. Even though it's been successful at presenting my gushy, lovely, fluffy, and marshmellowy feelings about my first weeks in Paris, it's going to get more down-and-dirty. My sister, who has always been the person who gives me the best constructive criticism, told me that it was all fine and dandy to talk about hot chocolate at Les Deux Magots in St Germain, but that I needed to get to deeper anthropological stuff. She threw a good idea at me, and said: "what came first: the chicken, or the egg. Did cafe culture influence intellectuals, or did intellectuals influence cafe culture."


You may remember my reference to how Les Deux Magots was a favorite hang-out for Picasso, Hemingway, Sartre, among others. Cafes like these seem to have always encouraged stimulating conversations. They're cozy, and they're the best places to people-watch. Most Parisian cafes are strategically located at corners of intersections, and tables and chairs are placed facing the sidewalks and streets. 


It seems that every time we go to one of these cafes, something happens that reminds me that cafe culture is sacred, and important things happen there. Movements are created, proposals are made, and there is more than just coffee brewing in the kitchen. 


One day, the three of us were sitting at our table, and noticed a woman sitting at the table next to ours. She was not French, nor British, nor was she from the US. She was speaking loudly into her telephone and I'm proud to say my toddler was behaving better than she was. She was annoying and loud. The French gentleman next to her, who had a sophisticated aura about him and was an obvious regular, looked up from his Le Monde and yelled to her in French about how rude and uneducated she was. How dare she speak so loudly on a cellular phone at a cafe? He was angry, very angry. And even though his reaction was a bit extreme, I had to agree with him. She was disturbing the thinking caps and brainstorming waves that fly around Les Deux Magots.


Another visit to Les Deux Magots was just as enthralling. We sat next to a table of what looked like very wise, older intellectuals. They were speaking a mixture of French and Hebrew, and I imagined they were part of some kind of philosophical society, meeting to discuss this week's theory. A woman joined them at one point, and she seemed to mesmerize the other gentlemen with her take on the conversation. Other men joined the group, and all it took was for their comrades to pull up yet another chair to participate in the conversation. It was like being transported to the time of the existentialist movement and its birth at Les Deux Magots. I could totally picture it.


When we're in the US, where there is not a cafe culture (other than in perhaps NYC and a few other places), my husband yearns for them. [I'd like to pause and make a distinction between cafe culture European style, and Starbucks. It ain't the same thing.] In most of Europe and definitely Eastern Europe as well, you can sit and have a cup of coffee and people watch all year round. Even in frigid winters, space heaters and plastic tarps help cafe culture survive the dead of winter. It seems that here, people look forward to going to the cafe - it is where business meetings take place, where lovers meet, friends catch-up, writers write, thinkers think, and where people seem to create their own sacred, protected space but in the presence of others.


So back to my original question: Do cafes lead to intellect and creativity, or do intellect and creativity lead to cafes?


If you've read this far into this entry, then you probably care about what I'm talking about. If so, please tell me what you think.
P.S. Don't worry - I'll continue to include fluffy, pretty, gushy entries about my life in Paris.

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

A Croque for you, Madame?

Today I had a croque madame for lunch at Les Deux Magots. My husband and I can't seem to get enough of this place (and its hot chocolate). My in-laws arrived today, and it was the logical place to take them for their first truly Parisian lunch experience. My croque madame was perfection - the most perfectly fried egg and delicious cheese and ham on toast. Oh so French, oh so good.
croque madame
Speaking of in-laws, you may be wondering how I propose to take an intensive eight-month culinary and pastry course with a toddler on board. The answer is simply that I have the best in-laws a girl could wish for. Recently retired, they've decided to come to Paris to be with our son while I'm in class. They rented an apartment near ours, and are about to embark on their new career - being awesome full-time grandparents.

So to all those fantastic grandparents out there, I say hooray. In Beijing, China, it is very common to see grandparents with their grandchild (it is usually only one that they have, after all.) The Chinese have an unparallel respect for grandparents and they hold important roles in the family, unlike other countries, where they are often cast off to a nursing home. They have, after all, lived through more of the good times and bad and can share more about life than others. For this reason, I'm thrilled that my son will have this exposure to wisdom, experience, and most importantly, love.

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Best hot chocolate in the world and the ugliest shoes in the world. Period.

Les Deux Magots is one of my favorite places on earth. It is one of the hang-outs of Hemingway, Sartre, and Picasso, among others, and one of the birthplaces of existentialism (according to the Lonely Planet France guidebook). (Yes, I read Lonely Planet guides...) Anyway, back to the hot chocolate. My husband and I tasted it last time we were in Paris, and swore to always return to this magical place. The hot chocolate is easily the most delectable, velvety cup of dark chocolaty richness I've ever had the privilege to enjoy. It was even better this time around, and in my toddler's words was: "yum yum!"
I accompanied it with a croissant, and I was in chocolate heaven. 
Now, to offer some contrast with this mouth-watering deliciousness, I'd like to share a less appetizing situation. If you are even the least little bit aware of shoe aesthetics, then you'll understand my predicament. These are the shoes I have to wear to culinary school:
I had to go to the end of the world (well, the end of the metro map of Paris) to buy them at a chef's speciality store (which was actually pretty cool), and I almost gagged when the sales person told me these were the ones Cordon Bleu students wore. "The women tend to choose the white ones rather than the black," she said. "That's a little better, I guess," I said. They're steel-tipped, oil resistant, and can withstand the side effects of the atomic bomb (well, maybe not that) "security shoes" and they're hideous. They are comfortable and strong, though, which is what will be important when I'm standing up for ten hours a day and a sharp knife comes flying down to my toes. Pity party over here.