This weekend we escaped the city on the TGV and went to Reims, champagne country. My sister, her husband, and baby are visiting, and we were happy to explore a part of France we'd never seen.
We visited Veuve Clicquot, one of the best champagne houses in France, and the world, since real champagne can only be produced in Champagne, France. Or so the French say. "Champagne" makers in Napa Valley disagree. I visited this wine country in 2006, and was told by "champagne" houses there that they, too, create champagne because they've developed the techniques necessary to make this sparkling wine. I happen to think that dry, o Brut, "champagne" made by Korbel is actually quite good - and a heck of a lot cheaper than Veuve Clicquot.
However, I respect French traditionalism and will side with them when they say they've got the one true champagne. I won't pretend to be an expert in this, because I am definitely not, but from what I understand, there is a crucial element in French champagne-making that is different from Napa Valley. The chalk. The Champagne region of France (and some of it's best wine regions across the country), are areas of high chalk or limestone content. They say that the best grapes grow in chalky environments.
Back to Reims. To be honest, there's not much to see. Next time we'll rent a car and drive around the vineyards, which are prettier than the otherwise industrial surroundings of Reims. The city center is nice, with beautiful architectural features and some lovely fountains and statutes. Notre Dame de Reims is stunning. 13th century Gothic architecture - complete with flying buttresses, gargoyles, and stain-glass windows in sharp blues is very special.
We were a bit disturbed by the bombardment of mass consumption that saturates the lovely buildings of Reims. These are mostly cheap clothing shops and mediocre restaurants. There are little, if no, quaint shops dedicated to the art of champagne. How could the tradition and history that is so respected in a place like Reims be so tarnished by tacky mass consumerism?
Veuve Clicqot has obviously managed a balance. They've mastered the art of participating in global market distribution and in continuing to strengthen a majorly recognized brand and reputation for excellence. They've also stayed true to the ethics and values of the company, which were created by the widow herself (veuve means widow in French). She took over the company in 1772 when her husband died at age 30. She was 28, and to say that she was ahead of her time is an understatement. The champagne house flourished during her 89 years. She developed champagne-making techniques, including one to separate the sediment that develops inside champagne bottles, which made champagne cloudy before she came along. The widow ensured the future stability and success of her business and inspired her successors to continue innovating.
We toured the cellars (of which there are 24km), learned about how their champagne is made, and tasted some bubbly, of course. What can I say, I melt at the thought of a flute of dry champagne. I confess I've been raised as a champagne snob. My mother knows a lot about it and has drilled into me that bad champagne is worse than any other kind of bad wine. It gives you headaches, and it's better to run away from it screaming.
"La grande dame de la Champagne", as the widow is known, didn't run away screaming. She was a tough cookie and made the company what it is today - another example of French elegance and tradition. There is an award called The Veuve Clicquot Award which honors some of the world's leading business women.
Will I be such a business woman one day? I think I have to perfect my macaroons, fillets, and terrines. Meanwhile, I'll continue to get inspiration from some good bubbly.
However, I respect French traditionalism and will side with them when they say they've got the one true champagne. I won't pretend to be an expert in this, because I am definitely not, but from what I understand, there is a crucial element in French champagne-making that is different from Napa Valley. The chalk. The Champagne region of France (and some of it's best wine regions across the country), are areas of high chalk or limestone content. They say that the best grapes grow in chalky environments.
Back to Reims. To be honest, there's not much to see. Next time we'll rent a car and drive around the vineyards, which are prettier than the otherwise industrial surroundings of Reims. The city center is nice, with beautiful architectural features and some lovely fountains and statutes. Notre Dame de Reims is stunning. 13th century Gothic architecture - complete with flying buttresses, gargoyles, and stain-glass windows in sharp blues is very special.
We were a bit disturbed by the bombardment of mass consumption that saturates the lovely buildings of Reims. These are mostly cheap clothing shops and mediocre restaurants. There are little, if no, quaint shops dedicated to the art of champagne. How could the tradition and history that is so respected in a place like Reims be so tarnished by tacky mass consumerism?
Veuve Clicqot has obviously managed a balance. They've mastered the art of participating in global market distribution and in continuing to strengthen a majorly recognized brand and reputation for excellence. They've also stayed true to the ethics and values of the company, which were created by the widow herself (veuve means widow in French). She took over the company in 1772 when her husband died at age 30. She was 28, and to say that she was ahead of her time is an understatement. The champagne house flourished during her 89 years. She developed champagne-making techniques, including one to separate the sediment that develops inside champagne bottles, which made champagne cloudy before she came along. The widow ensured the future stability and success of her business and inspired her successors to continue innovating.
We toured the cellars (of which there are 24km), learned about how their champagne is made, and tasted some bubbly, of course. What can I say, I melt at the thought of a flute of dry champagne. I confess I've been raised as a champagne snob. My mother knows a lot about it and has drilled into me that bad champagne is worse than any other kind of bad wine. It gives you headaches, and it's better to run away from it screaming.
"La grande dame de la Champagne", as the widow is known, didn't run away screaming. She was a tough cookie and made the company what it is today - another example of French elegance and tradition. There is an award called The Veuve Clicquot Award which honors some of the world's leading business women.
Will I be such a business woman one day? I think I have to perfect my macaroons, fillets, and terrines. Meanwhile, I'll continue to get inspiration from some good bubbly.
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